FASHION WEEK, PARIS FASHION WEEK, STYLE

Hed Mayner SS19 Paris Fashion Week Men’s

June 17, 2019
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light-weighted sportswear inspired accessories e.g. a hood goes great with any autumn winter outfits, for example, a Burberry trench.

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It is always great to see another innovative design based on the boring white shirt. Another way to dress impressively without over-dress.

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A light pink-ish, nude and orange shaded oversized coat will forever be my always. Extra point goes to the over-long sleeves and luxe textures, it just looks right.

8T3A4216 8T3A4227 8T3A4230 some clip-on shawl or blanket will look great with a Morocco desert drop for editorial. 8T3A4239 8T3A4249

something I didn’t expect to see from the collection – A artist/painter skort, apron with multi-pockets, seems too legit, realistic and practical for this young dreamy Israeli designer.

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I don’t think I will be able to say no to this meshed and structured trench coat.

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Probably my favourite look from the whole collection, it is so #extra yet seems just a frame of suit kind of attitude, no big deal, I heard the dress code was formal.

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Hed Mayner Paris check suit billy's wash laundry-3 copy Hed Mayner Paris check suit billy's wash laundry-2 Hed Mayner Paris check suit billy's wash laundry copy Hed Mayner Paris check suit billy's wash laundry-2 copy Hed Mayner Paris check suit billy's wash laundry Hed Mayner Paris check suit billy's wash laundry copy 2 Hed Mayner Paris check suit billy's wash laundry-3

这几年越来越深入的认识到:服装设计师不但要设计出具有主题和中心的每季的collection, 更重要的是要结合自己的故事, 背景和启发, 浅层次上更是要对材质有更苛刻的要求。所谓的“走秀款”要成为探讨的中心, “大众款”则是要求既与众不同,又能让消费者穿上不想脱下来-就是直接剪掉标签付款穿走的魔力。 几年前根部不懂得羊毛和西装材料的纺织有这么多的种类和技术,为之一惊!那我穿的这身 Hed Mayner oversized 西装来讲, 之前真的没有见过这样的剪裁- 跨背, 蚕茧形的袖子, loosefit, 但是因为是西装, 又要有基本的形状, 材质既能撑的起来想要的流线型, 却又同时拥有流水般的柔软, 这就是材料和防治技术上的要求。 不多讲啦,这里补充上一篇已经写过的Hed Mayner的小背景: 

生于以色列北部Amuka的设计师 Hed Mayner  早期在家乡 Bezalel Academy of Arts and Design in Jerusalem 学习, 随后到 Parisian Institut Français de la Mode深造 并进一步的学习设计和时装的深层含义。 

荣获LVMH 新人奖, 这几年来以自己的故乡为根据地和灵感的来源,以巴黎时装周为伸展台,在时装界崭露头角。 Hed Mayner认为肢体语言是时装设计的一大基础, 更觉得不能忽视灵魂, 灵性, 传统和我们内心的脆弱性。 他认为这些都是让时装有灵魂的东西。 

当初爱上hed mayner的主要原因是他不按常理的剪裁设计 – 他的设计大多以自然线条为灵感, 以大地色系为基础, 更是因为倡导中性格调, 收到了很多好评。

我个人最欣赏的是Hed Mayner设计当中的“充满空间”的剪裁和用料的奢华, “充满空间的剪裁”对应了Hed Mayner 认为肢体语言对他设计启发的重要性, 感觉即使是他设计的羊毛西装,也可以穿出来跳舞用, 不但材料及其柔软,而且也符合了我对蚕型, 超大码,突破传统剪裁的热衷。   

我的streetstyle: 

  • 畸形西装套装,萝卜型西装裤: Hed Mayner
  • Boots: Dries Van Noten 
  • 墨镜: Old Céline 

Photography: Jiawa Liu @Beige Renegade Editing and words: Bloggers Boyfriend

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